Marrakech

USA
July 2026
Jemaa el-Fna square seen from above, densely crowded with people and market stalls, the Koutoubia minaret rising in the background
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Practical Notes

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On May 9, 1969, six leading Moroccan artists carried their paintings into Jemaa el-Fna and hung them in the square. The show, Présence Plastique, lasted ten days, in the late-spring wind and dust. It ran alongside the official Salon du Printemps, a holdover from the French Protectorate that had classified Moroccan artists as naïve; the group attended long enough to read their manifesto before walking out. Their joint statement, published in the decolonial journal Souffles, called for art to reach the average person in the square, “to awaken his curiosity, his critical spirit, to stimulate him so that he integrates new plastic expressions into the rhythm of his life.” With works rooted in Amazigh pattern, Islamic geometry, and traditional craft, the exhibition argued that Morocco had one of the great abstract visual traditions in the world, one that French colonial rule had spent decades reclassifying as “folkloric” to protect the primacy of European art. Mohamed Melehi, one of the six, later said: “The Jemaa el-Fna was to let the authorities understand that art was for the people, not only for privileged society. Art is not only a precious object. It's an idea, a philosophy, a signal for freedom.”

Today, Jemaa el-Fnaa functions much as it did in 1969. By day, it is a sprawl of orange-juice stalls, argan-oil vendors, and henna artists whose regular clientele is mostly local. By night, musicians and storytellers, snake charmers, and drummers. Moroccan writer Abdelkebir Khatibi, writing in La Mémoire tatouée, described Marrakech spreading out “plus énigmatique que jamais, palpitations feutrées, éparses et secrètes, boutiquiers furtifs”: more enigmatic than ever, its palpitations muffled and secret, its shopkeepers furtive. Around it, the city has accumulated museums, galleries, and the 1-54 Contemporary African Art Fair, the only international fair dedicated to art from Africa and its diaspora. The rugs, ceramics, lighting, and clothing made here draw designers as much as collectors. Hassan Hajjaj, whose art and photography draw on Moroccan popular culture, founded Riad Yima, a gallery and tea room in the medina, and Jajjah, a larger outpost in the Sidi Ghanem industrial quarter. The city is also home to MACAAL, one of the continent's leading contemporary art museums, and the Farid Belkahia Foundation in the Palmeraie, dedicated to the work of one of the artists who hung his paintings in Jemaa el-Fnaa in 1969.

The medina belongs on every first-time visitor's itinerary. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, its layout has changed little since it was founded in the eleventh century by the Almoravid dynasty, making it one of the few places where the organization of a medieval craft economy can still be experienced. The medina is traditionally organized by trade. The dyers have their souk, the weavers their quarter, the carpenters their street; the maker of any specific object is a few turns away. The tanneries still process leather in vats of pomegranate, saffron, and poppy. On the city's edge, the Sidi Ghanem industrial quarter has become the contemporary counterpart, a district of designer studios and showrooms where the same materials turn up in contemporary work. Painter and novelist Mahi Binebine keeps his studio further out, in Tahannaout, in the foothills of the Atlas.

  The city has also undergone, in the past two decades, a transformation familiar in other international places: western buyers convert riads in the medina, longtime residents move out, boutique hotels and galleries open in their place for an international clientele whose relationship to the city is largely aesthetic. Much of it borrows the city's surfaces without engaging its economics. In September 2023, a 6.8 magnitude earthquake struck Al Haouz province, killing nearly 3,000 people and destroying villages an hour from the city center. Three years later, many survivors remain in temporary housing while investment flows toward infrastructure for Morocco's role in the 2030 World Cup. In September 2025, a youth movement called GenZ212 organized protests across Morocco, highlighting a more than 35 percent unemployment rate and demanding government spending on public health and education over international sporting events, and an end to corruption. Protests spread from Casablanca, Marrakech, and Rabat to cities across the country; three people were killed when police opened fire in Lqliâa. On October 10, King Mohammed VI called for social and political reforms in an address to parliament, without mentioning the protests directly. By month's end, the government had introduced budget increases for health and education while charging more than 2,400 protesters.

  None of which is a reason not to go. Morocco is a country organized around family life, and Marrakech is a city that expects and welcomes children. Children of any age with any appetite for color, craft, texture, food, and smell will find the city hard to ignore, from the snake charmers in Jemaa el-Fnaa and the camels in the Palmeraie to the orange blossom gazelles, the souks, and the Majorelle Garden. Moroccan-owned establishments will be particularly welcoming to families; more expat-run venues may not. Keep in mind that traveling with young children does require some planning. The medina's cobblestones are hard on a stroller, and taxis rarely have seatbelts, so arrange private transport if you need a car seat. Riads require a short walk from the nearest road, but most will arrange a porter to assist with bags. The practical notes below cover the logistics in more detail, along with our full recommendations for families.

 
Stacked pink-earth medina rooftops in Marrakech, a figure in a striped djellaba standing on a terrace, wooden shutters and zellij tiling below
The carved stucco archway and zellij-tiled courtyard of Madrasa Ben Youssef in Marrakech, lit by warm afternoon light, a shallow reflecting pool at center
Rows of orange and tomato stalls at a Marrakech market, seen from below a patchwork of stretched canvas awnings filtering the sunlight
Two women ordering fresh juice from a red-wheeled cart in Jemaa el-Fna
Teal and orange textiles hanging outside a terracotta-walled shop in the medina

PRACTICAL NOTES

  • Lodging in Marrakech is worth thinking through before you book; where you stay will shape your trip. Riads (traditional courtyard guesthouses) are the most distinctive option and the right choice if you plan to spend most of your time in the Medina. The lanes they occupy are impassable by car and luggage must be carried by foot, but most riads will arrange a porter to meet you. Guéliz, the modern district, is stroller-navigable and the better base if you want apartment-style accommodation or more flexibility; it sits a taxi ride from the Medina. Resort hotels outside the city have pools and space but are car-dependent for everything. Large luxury hotels just outside the Medina walls, La Mamounia among them, offer both grounds and proximity, at a premium price point.

  • For infants and toddlers, a carrier is essential in the Medina. Lanes are narrow, surfaces are uneven, and foot traffic is constant. A lightweight stroller works on the main routes but can be difficult on the smaller roads. Many restaurants and rooftop spaces are also stair-access only, and while some will let you leave it at the bottom, it rules out others entirely. For Guéliz, a stroller is fine. Sidi Ghanem is largely gravel between locations, with no sidewalks.

  • Taxis can be difficult to negotiate without French or Arabic, and many lack rear seatbelts necessary for a car seat. If you are traveling with a car seat, arrange a private transfer in advance through your hotel rather than flagging something on the street.

  • Jemaa el-Fnaa at dusk is worth doing once. Loud and crowded, but exciting for children: snake charmers, street performers, the full spectacle.

  • Cash is essential inside the Medina; outside it, cards are generally accepted, but it is helpful to have on hand regardless. ATMs are easy to find across the city, though fees can be high unless your bank has a no-fee arrangement. In the souks, price negotiation is expected, and the first number offered is rarely the final one.

  • Bacha Coffee regularly has multi-hour queues. Arrive before opening or plan for a long wait.

  • Marrakech has some of the finest hammams and spas in the world. Most hotels can arrange a hammam booking. La Mamounia and Royal Mansour Spa are both open to non-guests by reservation. Farnatchi is a reliable mid-range option with easier availability.

  • Summers are extremely hot and winter evenings are colder than visitors expect. Schedule outdoor time for early morning or late afternoon in summer, and pack layers regardless of season.

  • During Ramadan, the city shifts entirely to a nocturnal schedule. Most restaurants and cafés are closed through the day; kitchens open after sunset. Jemaa el-Fnaa becomes a nighttime feast. Keep in mind if considering travel during this time.

EDITOR’S PICKS

If you only have a day, a weekend, or a specific mood to match:

  • Morning: Dar El Bacha + Bacha Coffee (arrive before it opens)

  • Afternoon: Madrasa Ben Youssef

  • For design: Comptoir des Mines Galerie + a day trip to Sidi Ghanem

  • To eat: Dar Yacout

  • Sweet spot: Mon Quotidien for gazelles

  • Culture: Maison de la Photographie

  • To take home: Chabi Chic for ceramics, Moro for clothing and accessories

  • For a breath of air: Jardin Ocre

  • Beyond the city: Agafay Desert

Tiled courtyard with a shallow pool and palm trees inside a Marrakech riad
Intricately carved stucco archway and zellige tilework at Ben Youssef Medersa

RECOMMENDATIONS

 
medina-marrakech-arched-passage-motorcyclist
Koutoubia minaret silhouetted against a hazy sunset over Jemaa el-Fna

STORIES FOR THE ROAD

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For children

For parents

  • The Hospital by Ahmed Bouanani: A portrait of postcolonial Morocco rendered through a man who cannot leave a hospital that may not exist.

  • The Moor's Account by Laila Lalami: A fictionalized account of Estebanico, a Moroccan-born enslaved man who was the first African explorer of North America.

  • This Blinding Absence of Light by Tahar Ben Jelloun: Based on real testimonies, Ben Jelloun reconstructs the desert concentration camps in which King Hassan II held political enemies in underground cells.

  • The Blue Caftan (film) directed by Maryam Touzani: A husband and wife who run a traditional caftan atelier in Salé take on a young apprentice.

Explore more of our reading lists on Bookshop.

 

These resources are updated periodically.

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